Well you can get many differing appraisals as coins and collectibles have several values - the value a dealer will pay, the value you can expect to pay a dealer for them. an insurance valuation which is based on catalogue value or replacement value.
when you sell them do NOT expect to get catalogue value - that is the price you would pay a dealer.
I have boxes full of coins and to be honest they are not worth more than scrap metal and your tin or box of coins may be similar BUT then again they may be worth a good deal.
Can you put up some photos and then we will know whether they are even worth taking for appraisal keeping in mind that you will pay for the service.
@Lammerlaw
Thanks for the good advice.
A big job to get the photos up, but I think it is a good idea and appreciate the input.
It may take a few days…
Stand-by please!
Looking forward to seeing them and I can certainly give you an idea as to whether they have good potential value or of lower value.
I have about two gallons of coins here which I give away by the handful to kids who profess an interest in collecting coins and yet I have another two slide containers plus a box and two coin albums in safe deposit with coins that are good retirement coins.
Well, I’ve started the process, for all to consider and comment.
Here’s an early shot. It seems as a new member I can only attach one photo per post. Sorry.
So, more coming. Loads left to photograph.
I will keep them coming over the weekend - and I will try to group them intelligently…
It would appear that your coin selection/collection is what we might consider a typical Kiwi coin hoard where anything going out of circulation eg pre decimals, were thrown into a container and anything foreign followed so that if Aunty fanny went on an overseas trip she gave all her foreign coins to your dad or whoever accumulated them and they ended up in the hoard.
This means most of the coins have a mere token value so that you might see them in a second hand shop for twenty cents each, more or less.
this does not mean that what you have shown here has no value because they do.
The last photos show English pennies - (5) plus what looks like a Greek coin and another two. Maybe, just maybe the middle left coin might be Italian but I dont really know without seeing more - Has it got Victor Emmanuel on the reverse side? These coins are not worth anything worth mentioning because of the condition.
The NZ florins and half crowns - they have some value but their condition is average or in numismatic terms range from VG to a few almost EF from what I can see. The better the condition the higher the value.
1946 and earlier are fifty percent silver and for silver content are worth more than comparable condition cupro nickel coins.
Here is a link to find your values;_ New Zealand coin values
Remember however that this is NOT what you can expect to get for them but it is the price you can expect to pay if you want to buy from a coin dealer or insurance value…to have an insurance value then that value must be given by a professional and he will charge you.
If you sell your coins you can expect to get between a 1/4 and a 1/2 catalogue value - if you are lucky.
The best place to sell is to try your luck on Trademe.
I saw several lots of 12 half crowns sold at public auction late last year for $80 per lot so that means that you might expect to get $80 for 12 random dated fine condition half crowns or $6.60 each near enough.
The mix of world coins has one interesting one - the Japanese 50 sen coin. Its condition is terrible but it is 72 percent to 80 percent silver depending on year. Its melt value is about $8 BUT depending on year it might be worth a LOT more despite value as VF Year 13 (1880) examples in VF condition are over $20,000 HOWEVER it wont be that year I dont think. Its condition might put it as about $10 to $15 IF someone wants it. Some years however are high value.
I do not know what the coin is with the shield - middle row left hand side…looks Swiss or Italian but I dont think it is either.
The world coins are all common except the Japanese one and the one with a shield which I do not know. I give them away to kids who want to collect coins so nothing of real value - not enough to retire on in any case!
Many thanks for this invaluable information - and the helpful link. Appreciated.
I think I will take your advice and put all of the NZ / AU coins on TradeMe, grouped in similar types. They are bound to be worth more here, than anywhere else. A $1 START PRICE should get them moving.
As condition appears to be important, I will spend some time cleaning them up, as this process has not begun. Given their age - many 150+ years old - I think they will all benefit from some elbow grease.
I had thought that the French “Commerce Industrie 1925” coin might have been sought after. It appears to be brass and is in nice condition. Thought the same about the 1923 Canadian 5-cent piece.
I guess you never know.
I wish I could answer your other questions, but some of these coins are worn smooth and very hard to read. I’m sure the experts have some “special sauce” they can squirt on it to reveal the original stamp; but sadly, my bottle is empty.
I will do some further research on the other coins you mention - and in my next photos, I will try to just show the coins that are in great condition and readily legible
Again, many thanks for generously sharing your time and expertise.
It pays to research them individually. I have mixed reservations about $1 reserve as l did that with a good Toyota HiLux Surf and only got $1000! Ouch!
If you are going to try that then maybe low value coins first perhaps to gauge the reactions.
Coins made of silver could begin perhaps at silver melt value - list them as 'fifty percent silver, melt value $8 and begin at maybe $6.
Thanks for this tip.
I guess you are saying don’t polish or scour their surface in any way - but a hot detergent wash to remove years of gunge and grime would be helpful wouldn’t it?
